Rediscovering Classic English Cuisine in London

In London, restaurants serving classic English cuisine are seeing a resurgence. Alice Newell-Hanson, T’s digital director, whose heritage is part English and part Irish, shares her perspective. The feature, Food Matters, explores how what we eat defines us and delves into the renewed interest in traditional British dishes.

The Revival of Classic British Cuisine

In recent years, the culinary landscape of London has embraced both nostalgia and innovation, with young chefs drawing inspiration from the classic yet understated elements of English and Irish cuisine. As these chefs explore and redefine traditional dishes, there is an increasing appreciation for the simplicity and care involved in preparing well-loved staples. Creativity is evident in the way these chefs craft their menus, with a focus on high-quality ingredients and traditional techniques that breathe fresh life into age-old recipes. This reinvigoration reflects a broader movement that celebrates not just the flavors, but the memories and experiences associated with comfort food. As the city’s dining scene continues to evolve, this blend of the familiar and the refined is transforming perceptions of British and Irish culinary traditions, inviting locals and visitors alike to savor the rich, albeit understated, tapestry of tastes.

Immigrants’ Influence on British Cuisine

If some of this attention can be attributed to a perverse fascination with British grimness — particularly of the type captured in the photographer Martin Parr’s starkly lit images of sausages and baked beans — and even a kind of working-class cosplay, it also corresponds to a deeper reappraisal by a new generation of chefs. Last year, the London culinary institution St. John, run by the chef Fergus Henderson and known for its nose-to-tail British cooking, celebrated its 30th anniversary. Now the younger chefs who’ve passed through its kitchen and that of the similarly influential Rochelle Canteen, founded in 2004 by the chef Margot Henderson, Fergus’s wife, have begun to open their own restaurants, offering fresh takes on the canon. “Everyone criticized us because our food was so brown,” says Margot, 60, of the response to her and Fergus’s early dishes. “But we love brown food. It’s about letting it be.” She’s become known for remastering English standards like boiled ham with parsley sauce and Lancashire hot pot, a stew of lamb, potatoes and onion. “British food is gentle and so simply made,” she says. But “simple is not easy.”

Revival of Classic English Fare by a New Generation of Chefs

The potato’s transformation from the so-called Root of Misery to a celebrated staple reflects a broader culinary evolution happening within both Irish and British cuisines. London’s dining scene is embracing these humble roots, with eateries like Café Cecilia showcasing traditional Irish dishes such as colcannon, while the popularity of Guinness surged so much in Britain that shortages became a reality. Additionally, the recently opened Yellow Bittern by Hugh Corcoran offers a harmonious fusion of Irish, English, and French flavors. Despite some likening its simple dishes to “school dinners,” the restaurant’s intimate and cheerful atmosphere, coupled with Corcoran’s philosophy of injecting joy and generosity into meals, draws diners eager for both comfort and delight. This shift in perception underscores a collective cultural movement towards appreciating the simplicity and history behind these traditional ingredients and dishes.

Revival of Irish Cuisine in London

In conclusion, the revival of traditional British and Irish cuisine in London reflects a broader reappraisal from a new generation of chefs who are infusing nostalgia with modern ambition. By emphasizing the care and quality of ingredients, chefs like Fergus and Margot Henderson and Will Lewis are elevating classic dishes, giving them a newfound appreciation in the high-end food culture. The simple yet earnest approach to these culinary traditions is transforming perceptions, celebrating the inherent charm and comfort of these once-overlooked staples. In doing so, they highlight the joy and satisfaction that can be found in even the simplest of meals.